In recent years natural processed lots of coffee has often been referred to as a trend in the specialty coffee community. However, I don’t see it like that. After all it is the original method to process coffee. This is probably due to the fact that in practice, it is the least intrusive method to process coffee; and in many ways the most natural indeed. Some natural processed coffees have been described as funky (this can both be good and bad) and some could certainly be described as trendy; these being the well-known Beloya and Aricha (Idido) lots in particular. They were called “New Naturals” when introduced back in 2008. "New" since they were clean and selectively ripe harvested; something traditional naturals had not yet been associated with. Now I think it is fair to say that those trendy Ethiopian lots from a few years back were indeed trendsetting and pioneering in a sense. They were true high-grade specialty coffees. They showcased the potential of the natural process. They revolutionized the process and brought it out of the dirt, where many had thought it would (some still think it should) always belong. These lots proved differently. The people behind these lots were visionary and daring and on to something right. Obviously natural processing does not have to produce unclean coffee so why should farmers not use this method if they do it right? - Why not develop this process instead of leaving it be? - Why should we not realize its potential in cooperation with farmers? - Why should we not support the farmers who do this process well? - Why should we as an industry not promote it as a quality alternative?
As a matter of fact I think we already do. I hope we do. At least I see more and more different lots from different origins being marketed as something like “Special Selection Natural”; something that would not have been found on the shelves a few years back. Now select naturals seem to bee a true unique specialty in its own right; with its own flavor characteristics and a steady following, though it is often dividing opinions.
However its popularity is not to be discussed. It is probably mainly due to the distinct taste, which can be very exotic and complex; spicy, fruity, aromatic and maybe slightly fermented. Definitely not everyone’s cup of...coffee! - It seems either you are in to it or you are not. That is great I think; taste is subjective and it should be. “The Natural Flavor” is usually distinct and quite recognizable. Even If you do not regularly like the flavor characteristic you have encountered from naturals so far don’t judge all naturals to be of bad or unclean quality. I can testify, that I have tasted naturals that did not even have the slightest fermented note to it; so clean and crisp indeed they could have been mistaken for a washed or semi-washed coffee. This shows to me that the quality potential is there for the process; it’s all about have it’s executed. Not all parameters can be controlled though. Some climates are simply better suited for this process than others. Clearly very hot and humid areas pose a great risk of fermentation when you deal with very high sugar content (a product of selective ripe harvest) naturals, which clearly is the only way to go to produce quality. That being said. No matter what climate or origin and no matter what taste preference you have naturals naturally do come with a number of benefits.
The Benefits
It is no doubt a vastly more eco-sustainable method alone by its very simple principle of no water usage. This pollutes no water and requires no water redirection from streams equaling less interference with nature.
It also has another social-sustainable effect as it enables small-scale independent farmers to actually process their own coffee without having access to water, floaters, de-pulpers or fermentation tanks. All they need basically need is a place to dry the coffee; that being a patio or raised beds; the latter no doubt being the preferred method in my opinion. A combination might be the most effective way to produce great naturals. Finishing the drying process on raised beds seems to ensure a cleanliness, clarity and crispness to coffee that it does not get drying on patio alone. Raised bed drying also seems to preserve aromatics better. I am sure this is due to the slower drying. The more even drying enabled by the raised beds no doubt contributes to less risk of fermentation. Done right; with the right level of cherries vs. humidity and the right interval of raking I am positive that avoiding any unwanted fermentation can be achieved completely. However climate is a big factor here as previously mentioned. No doubt this method produces the cleanest and crispest lots of coffee in colder and dryer climates, where slow and even drying is enabled and the risk of spontaneous fermentation is kept down.
There is another benefit worth mentioning. It is one that I have realized during product development of single origin espressos from our natural Brazilian coffees in particular. This is an attribute that is to the benefit of the roastmaster as well as anyone enjoying the finished product.
I have found that it is possible to obtain a balanced flavor profile combined with a very rich and mouth coating tactile sensation (brewed as espresso) from a lighter roast degree than with other coffees processed differently. This might not seem like a great thing in itself, but it is. Going lighter means more aromatic intensity, more terroir traits are preserved, more fruity acidity is preserved and you avoid a lot of bitter, smoky, carbonic flavors often inevitably associated with espresso. The key to this really is the the processing. Of course you are already well on your way to a nice espresso by simply using good quality Brazilian coffee as this is known for its sweetness, mouthfeel and mellow acidity. All qualities that makes it very suitable for espresso and as such it has long been the preferred base ingredient in most espresso blends around the globe. But a high quality natural really enables you to create and espresso roast that is something special. I dare to state that this is the optimum coffee for SO espresso. Of course this is very much a matter of taste and this is merely my opinion, but I think it is fair to say that most espresso drinkers probably are in it for the mouthfeel. At least I know that all my colleagues agree with me that it is the main quality of an espresso; the richness in the taste and the richness in the mouthfeel that only comes from a highly concentrated coffee beverage brewed under pressure and filtered through holes in a metal sheet. Ideally an espresso is smooth, balanced, rich on the palate and satisfying as a whole. It is possible to obtain this with a minimum of bitterness in the picture. I don't think bitterness is a quality to look for in an espresso, though many have become used to it. Bitterness comes with darker roasts and that does mask a lot of the true qualities in the coffee. Using naturals have for me been the best and most efficient way to achieve the kind of espresso I find ideal and get there with a minimum of bitterness and a maximum of that richness I want in my espresso. Now this might sound a little easy; "just use naturals and you get the complete espresso". Everyone who roasts on a serious level, know that it is not like that. It it tricky roasting light; especially for espresso and naturals are not easier to roast than other types of coffee; on the contrary in many cases. However with a little experimentation naturals offers ways to get there while going lighter on the roast degree and in my opinion that is a very great quality. Now to cover the rationale behind these proposed qualities and benefits requires a look at perception and basic chemistry.
I have found that it is possible to obtain a balanced flavor profile combined with a very rich and mouth coating tactile sensation (brewed as espresso) from a lighter roast degree than with other coffees processed differently. This might not seem like a great thing in itself, but it is. Going lighter means more aromatic intensity, more terroir traits are preserved, more fruity acidity is preserved and you avoid a lot of bitter, smoky, carbonic flavors often inevitably associated with espresso. The key to this really is the the processing. Of course you are already well on your way to a nice espresso by simply using good quality Brazilian coffee as this is known for its sweetness, mouthfeel and mellow acidity. All qualities that makes it very suitable for espresso and as such it has long been the preferred base ingredient in most espresso blends around the globe. But a high quality natural really enables you to create and espresso roast that is something special. I dare to state that this is the optimum coffee for SO espresso. Of course this is very much a matter of taste and this is merely my opinion, but I think it is fair to say that most espresso drinkers probably are in it for the mouthfeel. At least I know that all my colleagues agree with me that it is the main quality of an espresso; the richness in the taste and the richness in the mouthfeel that only comes from a highly concentrated coffee beverage brewed under pressure and filtered through holes in a metal sheet. Ideally an espresso is smooth, balanced, rich on the palate and satisfying as a whole. It is possible to obtain this with a minimum of bitterness in the picture. I don't think bitterness is a quality to look for in an espresso, though many have become used to it. Bitterness comes with darker roasts and that does mask a lot of the true qualities in the coffee. Using naturals have for me been the best and most efficient way to achieve the kind of espresso I find ideal and get there with a minimum of bitterness and a maximum of that richness I want in my espresso. Now this might sound a little easy; "just use naturals and you get the complete espresso". Everyone who roasts on a serious level, know that it is not like that. It it tricky roasting light; especially for espresso and naturals are not easier to roast than other types of coffee; on the contrary in many cases. However with a little experimentation naturals offers ways to get there while going lighter on the roast degree and in my opinion that is a very great quality. Now to cover the rationale behind these proposed qualities and benefits requires a look at perception and basic chemistry.
The Qualities and Perception
While the benefits are numerous and obvious, the subject of taste and quality is different and somewhat more ambiguous to cover. No doubt there is often a significant signature from the processing alongside the signature of the terroir. I usually like that signature of naturally processed coffees though it should never dominate or overwhelm the clarity of the cup. It is a matter of level; a balancing act. For some it easily gets too much, while others enjoy quite a bit of it without screaming “dirty fermentation defect”.
However, when natural processing is done right, it is as if I get a bit more of everything; more aroma, richer mouth feel, higher level of sweetness. There is something to this as a matter of fact. I have heard arguments that the sugar content from the mucilage creeps into the seed during drying. While this might be true to some extend in certain cases I don’t believe this to be a general fact. There is already sugar there if the cherry has been allowed to fully mature and it is therefore not likely that sugar would migrate through membranes to up concentration in one cell structure (especially not one of higher density) instead of another. Nature has its way of leveling these things. What probably really happens is that you are more likely to maintain the existing sugar level in the seed at the picking stage using the method of natural processing to dry the seed. In fact you do preserve a higher concentration of sugar content due to the fact that germination does not occur when the skin is left on the seeds. Breakdown of sugars in the seed happen to fuel germination. Germination starts when skin is depulped as certain enzymes in the skin preserves the seed by disabling germination. So naturals do not germinate and so sugars are preserved better.
It is all relative when it comes to taste. There seems to be a general agreement that pulp-naturals are sweeter than naturals; this is true in the sense that pulp naturals has a higher content of fructose (which is also formed from glucose during germination) as opposed to the naturals which has a higher content of glucose. Fructose simply has a higher sweetness index, so it is perceived sweeter, but indeed the natural has a higher concentration of sugar pr. weight, this predominately being glucose, a molecule with a high viscosity contributing positively to the mouth feel explaining why naturals has a rich dense and rounded feel on the palate.
Thinking about it, it only makes sense that you get more in the cup, when you leave more of the fruit on the seed for a longer time during drying. This is of course an illustration that is simplifying things a little. It is not that you add more to the seed, as seemed to be the general belief. Sugar levels in the seed are determined by ripening stage and growing conditions; not time exposed to mucilage after picking. So you don’t add to the coffee during drying. It’s a simple preservation process, not an enhancing method. The richness of naturals is simply due to the fact that more of the sugars and aromas are preserved in the seed as glucose. Of course it’s not that simple either. Much else is going on here as well. When preserving the skin during drying you stop certain biochemical reactions from happening while you enable others to carry out and so you get a different flavor profile all together interchangeably determined by various constantly changing factors. I am just getting around the basic taste parameters here; sweetness and acidity.
The natural process is not just a trend; it is the historical original method. It is the simplest method. It is the least intrusive method ecologically. It is the least costly method in terms of fixed equipment costs. I don’t believe this process is merely limited to be used because it is convenient or because it has become trendy for that matter. I dare to state that it is the process that (when done right) seems to preserve most of the potential in our beloved coffee fruit.
It has been claimed that natural processing masks the origin (terroir nuances) by adding unwanted or indistinctive flavor attributes to the cup. I do follow this to a certain degree, since “the natural taste” can be quite dominating and seems to be of general character. I simply don’t believe a great natural should be dominated be this taste. A natural done right should simply taste of more of everything that is natural and characteristic to the fruit (sweetness and acidity); this also means more of the terroir traits since the terroir is what shape the potential of the fruit. I have tasted this so I know it is possible. Now if you refer to terroir taste as minerality alone there is a certain sense to the point that this is easier to detect in a washed coffee. Reason probably being that these coffees usually are less wildly aromatic and mouth covering and so crisp nuances are easier to detect. Since minerals are solids and not volatile gasses (like most aromatic compounds) they will not simply disappear during any processing, that being de-pulping, washing, drying or polishing. The content might actually have a higher tendency to decrease in washed coffees, as they are soaked in water that may dissolve some minerals. In general though I think it is safe to say that if minerals are in the seed, they are there from the soil, and they are then likely to be extracted into the brew regardless of process. Now these subtle minerals may be easier to pick up from a coffee that has less fruity nuances, lower aromatic intensity and less rich mouth feel than a full blown natural. Like I said; it’s all relative when it comes to perception. However in a chemical sense, it is there in the same amount. There is simply more of everything when it comes to naturals. It’s the same with acidity. Now you do actually create more acids when you de-pulp and start germination. You also do create more acids during fermentation in fully washed processes. So there usually is a higher acid content in these coffees compared to a natural of same harvest, but some naturals are in fact very acidic naturally. They just don’t seem that bright because they are balanced out by high sugar levels and you might be thinking more about the rounded softness of the mouth feel in that case. It’s still all perception. The high acidity level can be there. It can all be there, and then some; I am talking about that extra little something, that is the signature of a natural. That signature can no doubt be dominating and masking, but it doesn’t have to be. That is what we have to eliminate, so that we maintain clarity and only get more of what we want in the cup. Natural processing offers simple ways to get there.
Key to any good natural is selective ripe hand picking without exception. This is virtually impossible to execute in real life, so a thorough hand sorting regimen during drying should be integrated in the practice of a good natural process to eliminate unripe and defect cherries. This is very necessary since the simple method of whole cherry sun drying does not allow any mechanical separation like the floater and de-pulper from wet-processing do.
The Perspectives
I am not saying natural processing should be the preferred method for everyone at all times. I am merely saying that we owe it some respect and support as a very reasonable alternative to the very established washed methods which I will use this opportunity to question; are they really that great? - I know they generally minimize the risk of unwanted fermentation, and they do potentially create some very crisp and bright coffees. This is only the case some very specific places in the world though. Many and perhaps most origins merely produce balanced, but rather bland washed coffees. They may be clean, but they are not very aromatic or bright; not very exciting; coffees from places like Mexico and Nicaragua comes to mind, knowing that both origins of course have farmers who do produce some startlingly beautiful lots of coffees. All countries do have exceptions to the general rule.
However I am sure in many cases, many producers washing their coffees would be better of producing a great natural. At least their environment would and their coffee would probably become more exciting flavor wise. Now of course most farmers will never change practice since general demand is mainly for washed coffees and there is a lot of concern involved with changing processing method; will mistakes happen? - Will defect count go up? - Will the market still be there? - Will the coffee fetch equal or better prices etc.; all questions which mean, that any change-taking is unlikely to happen for most producers, whether they can’t afford the potential risk associated with production changes or they simply are not willing to take that risk. So only producers with resources and interested buyers lined up are likely to experiment with “new” (untraditional for the origin) methods and probably only on small scale in any case. This is how it has to be. Not everyone can lead the way by example and inspire others. Not everyone can be visionary and daring. Besides being unlikely, that would simply be unsustainable practice. Markets have to follow and develop first of course. That is why we need to be excited about the variety and quality potential in coffee and support all of that as buyers and ambassadors. I am just happy, that some producers are able and willing to show the way for quality or at least shift their focus and effort toward quality, because the focus on getting the best out of what you have to work with is an important inspiration for other producers and markets alike.
In general I find it very exciting to follow the quality development and exploration of diversity in coffee that is going on in the specialty coffee business right now. It is exciting times where we are constantly learning more about what coffee is and what it can be. Experimental lots are an important part of this exploration and development. Whether the experiment is done with processing or something entirely different in mind somebody has to do things different from tradition if new ground is to be broken. And new ground should be broken, as we are fare from realizing the full potential of coffee in any area.
A lot of focus is on the cultivar (botanical varietal) right now. This is a very interesting and important chapter of coffee quality and taste for sure. No doubt about the fact that the varietal is a very important factor for the flavor outcome of any lot of coffee. The DNA sets the stage, the frame and the limits for what the fruit and seed can become during ripening. However I still believe that generally there is room for improvement regarding processing. As long as processing is not optimized I doubt that we will fully enjoy the benefits, nuances, variety and characteristics of different varietals. There is a lot of variety to come from all the factors of processing alone. Optimizing processing should still be the main focus for most producers and I believe it could be a way for many to offer greater variety in nuances and quality with the varietals they have planted already. Thus diversifying without the cost of replanting. Natural processing is a great way to get the best out of what you have to work with and possible even for a very simple plantation. No matter what method processing is where to start when focusing on quality production. I am looking forward to even more experimental lots in future and I do hope that more farmers and buyers will realize the potential of natural processing as part of quality production and a way to diversify on the market.
While waiting to taste more untraditional processing methods from various origins it is worth remembering that there are origins, where natural processing is in fact the tradition, that being Ethiopia and Brazil. In Brazil the method has mainly been used to produce bulk and process unripes or defects for commodity or national markets. In Ethiopia the method has for the longest long time been the preferred and the only method to process any coffee of any quality. Indeed it was no doubt the first method conceived and used. Probably not initially with the use of raised beds as it is today. While great tasting clean Ethiopian naturals are hard to come by these days more and more great naturals are indeed showing up from quality producers in Brazil pushing the limits of quality for the natural method. They no longer just use this processing as a secondary method, but are trying to get the most out of all cherries through this method. It all starts with selective ripe harvest of course. The best lots finishes on raised beds, as is the Ethiopian tradition. This is not traditional for Brazil. They may have been inspired by the success of Beloya and Aricha lots or buyers interested in something similar. However I know some specialty producers in Brazil who have in fact always been doing small quantities of specialty naturals without most buyers and exporters really being aware of the quality or interested in buying. We are very aware; we seek these lots when we visit Brazil and we encourage our partner farmers to take equal or more care with their naturals as they do with pulped lots. In turn we pay large premiums for these special naturals and offer them in small exclusive amounts.
If you are still not convinced, I can only encourage you to give naturals a chance with an open mind next time you get the chance. There is more in the cup and if it is done right that is a good thing.
